The Breakers and other Gilded Age mansions that line Bellevue Avenue may be what bring most tourists to Newport, but when they arrive they also discover adjoining neighborhoods of the old town that feature street after street of buildings that have stood there since before the Revolution. Most of these are private homes, several house B&Bs and a few historic homes or churches are open to tour.
Hunter House
Primary among these is Hunter House, one of America’s finest examples of Colonial domestic architecture. Located in the heart of The Point, a neighborhood filled with gracious vintage homes, Hunter House overlooks the bay across its gardens, and was built for the colony’s Deputy Governor. Newport – and in fact this very neighborhood -- was the home of the two most important (and intermarried) furniture-making dynasties of the mid 1700s, the Townsends and the Goddards. Hunter House is filled with authentic Goddard-Townsend furniture, a rare chance to see pieces in their original setting, surrounded by beautifully carved interior woodwork. It also features period china, silver, decorative arts and one of Gilbert Stuart’s first commissioned works. (Preservation Society).
America’s Oldest Tavern
Constructed in 1652 and first licensed in 1673, The White Horse Tavern is America’s oldest tavern. For nearly a century it was also the meeting place of the Colony’s General Assembly, Court and Newport’s City Council. As such, it may be the site of the original business lunch, for the councilmen charged their meals there to the public treasury!
Enter its low-ceilinged dining rooms to experience the candlelit and fireplace-warmed ambiance of Colonial New England, but be prepared for 21st-century cuisine. Based on fresh locally produced and harvested ingredients, the menu strikes a delicate balance between the expected traditional Yankee favorites – creamy chowder and the Newport icon of bread pudding – and creative contemporary dishes, such as duck breast crusted in Jordan almonds, served with sweet potato, grilled endive and a sour-cherry reduction. Old time favorite lobster bisque takes on a Hispanic accent with the addition of corn and roasted poblano peppers. No self-respecting tavern of its age would be without a ghost, so stop in the cozy taproom and ask to see her picture.
Living with History
The Francis Malbone Inn, on Thames Street, was built during Newport’s glory days in the late Colonial period, and has been painstakingly – and handsomely -- restored and furnished to reflect its original owner’s prosperity throughout the Federal period. Wing chairs, fine antiques, original artworks and thoughtful details fill the guest rooms and public areas, in a setting marked by fireplaces, deep-set windows and fine interior architectural features. Afternoon tea is a gracious and sumptuous affair with a tableful of baked treats. Breakfast includes individually prepared entrees such as poached eggs over asparagus spears with Hollandaise.
Even if this was not a beautifully restored historic building, it would be a fine choice for its central location (a dozen good restaurants are within three blocks) and warm hospitality. The same owner shows his restoration talents with a later period at the stunning Arts and Craft-style Hilltop Inn, on Bellevue Avenue. He has chosen a local stained-glass artist to re-create the door and ceiling panels and has painstakingly uncovered and restored original woodwork.
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